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GullySystem
A practical guide

Thread count, GSM and weave: fabric terms for textile listings

Ganesh HSStrategy and Technology, GullySystem
Practical advice · 5 min read

In this guide 6 sections
The short answer

Thread count measures the threads woven into one square inch of sheet fabric. GSM measures cloth weight in grams per square metre, which suits towels, blankets and curtains. Weave describes how threads cross, fibre blend names what they are made of, and colour fastness shows whether dye survives washing. List each as its own field.

What thread count tells you and what it hides

Thread count is the number of warp and weft threads woven into one square inch of fabric. It belongs on sheets and pillowcases, where fine, tightly woven cloth feels smooth against the skin and holds its shape through repeated washing. It does not belong on towels.

The number can mislead. Two or three thin yarns twisted together may be counted as separate threads, so a high count can sit on a coarse cloth. Single-ply yarn from long-staple cotton usually feels better than a bigger number made from short fibre, so ask which one the listing describes.

Show thread count with ply and fibre. A listing that gives only a number invites a comparison that the number alone cannot support, and buyers then pick the biggest figure.

  • Thread count per square inch
  • Single-ply or multi-ply yarn
  • Cotton staple length, if the mill states it
  • Combed or carded cotton

GSM suits cloth you weigh, not count

GSM means grams per square metre. It is the weight of the cloth, which is why it fits towels, blankets, bathrobes and curtains better than a count of threads ever could. A lighter towel dries quickly and packs small. A heavier one feels plush but dries slowly.

GSM alone says nothing about softness or absorbency. Yarn, pile length and finish matter too. A ring-spun combed towel and a coarse open-end towel can share the same GSM and still feel very different in the hand.

Give the weight, the yarn and the use. Gym, bath, beach and hand towels each want something different, so a use line helps buyers who have no idea what a heavy towel should weigh.

Weave and fibre blend set the feel

Weave describes how threads cross. Percale is a plain weave, one thread over and one under, which feels crisp and cool and shows a clear grid when held to the light. Sateen floats threads on the surface for a smooth, slightly warm hand and a soft drape. Twill gives a diagonal rib that hides marks. Terry, waffle and jacquard are different again.

Fibre blend is the second field. Cotton, linen, polyester microfibre and bamboo viscose behave differently in heat, wash and wear. List each fibre with its share of the content, as the care label would, and use the plain fibre name rather than a marketing word.

Labelling rules for fibre content differ by country. Check the rule for each market you sell into, and keep the supplier’s test report on file in case a marketplace asks to see it.

  • Weave name: percale, sateen, twill, terry, waffle or jacquard
  • Fibre content as the care label states it
  • Finish: brushed, mercerised, enzyme-washed or pre-shrunk
  • Fabric hand in one plain line

Colour fastness and shrinkage need a plain promise

Buyers fear two things in a new set: dye that stains the rest of the wash, and a fitted sheet that stops fitting after one cycle. Both can be answered with fields instead of adjectives.

Colour fastness has several parts. Wash fastness covers bleeding in water. Crocking covers dye that rubs off on skin or furniture. Light fastness matters most for cushion covers placed near a window, where afternoon sun fades what the washing machine never touched. Quote the mill’s test grades as given.

Shrinkage is the other half. State whether the cloth is pre-washed, the care temperature to use and the size change a buyer should expect after washing, stated in centimetres or as a tolerance. Add a first-wash note, such as washing dark colours apart.

Fields that let buyers compare without a swatch

A bedsheet record needs set size, the mattress depth the fitted sheet covers, thread count, ply, weave, fibre and pillowcase count. A towel needs GSM, yarn, size and use. A cushion cover needs cover size, insert size, closure type, fabric weight, washability and a note on whether the zip is hidden or exposed on the back.

Fill the same fields for every item. A blank tells the shopper nothing, while a field marked not stated tells them the seller does not know. Ask suppliers to complete these fields before accepting a new line.

Pick your three best-selling items today. Fill every field from the supplier’s spec sheet, and write down the ones you cannot fill. That list becomes your first supplier request.

Textile listing field sheet

Template on one page, split into three blocks for bedsheet, towel and cushion cover. Each lists its fields: size, thread count or GSM, ply, weave, fibre content, finish, colour fastness grades, shrinkage note and care steps. Two columns beside every field record the source, such as spec sheet, lab report or own measurement, and its status, filled or still asked.

Open a blank worksheet to print

Questions owners ask

Is a higher thread count always better?

No. Yarn quality and weave matter as much, and a very high count can come from thin yarns plied together. Compare counts only between sheets of the same fibre and weave.

Do towels need a thread count?

No. Towels are judged by GSM, yarn type and pile. Thread count belongs on flat woven cloth such as sheets and pillowcases.

Should I list GSM as a single number or a range?

List the figure from the supplier’s spec sheet and add its tolerance if given. Bulk cloth varies slightly between lots, and a stated tolerance is more honest than a rounded claim.

How should I describe colour fastness to shoppers?

Use plain lines such as does not bleed in cold wash or rubs off lightly when dry, backed by the mill’s test grades kept on file.

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