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GullySystem
A practical guide

A sample approval log from lab dip to pre production sign off

Ganesh HSStrategy and Technology, GullySystem
Practical advice · 5 min read

In this guide 6 sections
The short answer

A sample approval log lists every sample as one row with type, round, date sent, buyer comment, decision and the approved version, kept in one shared place. Lab dips, strike offs, fit samples, size sets and pre-production samples each get rows of their own, and every round of each gets a fresh row. Bulk follows only the approved row.

One row for every sample sent

Buyers approve in rounds, and a fit sample may go out three times, so each round is a separate row, because round two’s comment is why round three exists. Never overwrite a row.

Give every row a sample type, a round number and a courier airway bill number, because the number lets you prove when the parcel left and when it arrived. It settles who waited for whom.

Keep the style number and the buyer’s purchase order beside each row, because a log that cannot be filtered by style becomes a diary nobody reads. Dates matter most. Without a reply date the log cannot show a slow buyer, and without a sent date it cannot show whether your own team made the style late.

  • Sample type and round number
  • Style, colour and size
  • Date sent and courier reference
  • Date the buyer replied
  • Decision: approved, comments or rejected

Treat swatches as colour records

A lab dip is a small dyed swatch sent to match a shade, and a strike off does the same job for a print or embroidery. Both fix colour before bulk, so each needs a reference swatch that the quality table can hold against bulk fabric from the dye house the day a roll arrives.

Record the shade code, the dye recipe reference or print screen, the light source the buyer uses and which numbered swatch was approved. Keep the physical swatch in a labelled pocket carrying the same number, so anyone can find the approved shade without asking around. Label every swatch.

When bulk fabric arrives, the quality team compares it to that swatch under the same light, starting from the log rather than someone’s memory of a phone call. Fabric that matches in daylight can look different under shop lights, so write down the light source the buyer named on the day.

Track fit samples, size sets, wash tests

Fit samples carry measurement comments, so write them as a short table of point of measure against the buyer’s requested change, row by row. Free text such as “a bit looser” cannot be audited later, so the pattern maker has to guess the change in millimetres before cutting.

The size set follows once the fit sample passes, and it proves that grading holds at the smallest and largest sizes of the style. Note sizes and corrections.

Wash tests and shrinkage reports belong in the same log for the style, because a fit that passes before washing and fails after is a common cause of rework. Photographs of the garment on a body and flat on a table, saved against the round, settle many later arguments about what was approved.

  • Point of measure and requested change
  • Sizes in the set and grading notes
  • Wash and shrinkage test result
  • Trim and label changes
  • Packing instruction changes noted

Lock the PP sample as standard

The pre-production sample, often called the PP sample, is the last gate, and once the buyer signs it nothing about the style should change without a new round. Mark that row as approved.

Pass the row to the cutting room and the sewing line as one pack: the signed PP sample, the final specification, the approved shade swatch and the trim card. Everyone works from one version.

If a late change arrives by email, add a new row instead of editing the old one, so the history stays honest and the floor sees the current version. No signature, no cutting. Supervisors should check the PP row for the buyer’s signature and a date before the first roll is spread.

Keep the log where the team works

A shared sheet is enough to begin, so give each merchandiser a filter by buyer, colour the approved rows green, and review overdue replies in a short weekly meeting.

When styles run into hundreds, link the log to orders so that cutting cannot be released without an approved PP row, because that one rule prevents many bulk disputes. Keep it simple.

Start by entering the samples still open today, and add the closed ones later only if a buyer asks, because a log of open work gets used. A merchandiser who joins mid season should be able to read the log and see where each style stands, and that is the clearest sign that the layout works.

Sample approval log template

A log laid out as one line for each sample round has columns for buyer, order, style, sample type, round, date sent and courier reference. Other columns hold the buyer reply date, measurement or colour comments, decision, approved version flag and the location of the physical swatch. A side block lists open samples waiting more than a week for a buyer reply, so nothing waits unnoticed by the merchandiser.

Open a blank worksheet to print

Questions owners ask

How many samples should one style need?

It varies by buyer and style complexity. A repeat style in a known fabric may need only a PP sample, while a new silhouette may need several fit rounds.

Who owns the log?

One owner per buyer. The merchandiser for each buyer owns the rows, and a manager reviews the open list weekly so that no reply sits unanswered.

What if approval comes by email?

Email counts. Paste the date and the approving line into the row and file the email with the style, so the row then points to written proof.

Do we need software for this?

Not at first. Software helps when the log must block cutting release or link to orders, so keep the layout simple and portable.

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